Almaty, Kazakhstan

After a quick layover and lunch back in Bishkek, we continued on our flight to Almaty: cultural, economic, and former political capital of Kazakhstan. 

Holding my tongue on any number of Borat references, I proceeded to pick my jaw up off the well-swept, glittering streets. It's best to cross them expeditiously, as the constant armada of Lexuses and Mercedes will give you just enough time to cross. Less Soviet than Bishkek, Almaty has fully embraced western tastes. 

So much so that it has pedestrian-only shopping streets, a few bicycle lanes, and even a Saturday morning farmer's market. The market sells exclusively  produce, cheese, and meat—no pre-made food, wine, or handmade goods like in the States. The nectarines and apricots are unparalleled here.

Picked up a latte at Starbeans Coffee (next year they'll be getting the real deal, as well as their first McDonalds) as we walked to the Central Mosque. Adam and I were able to sit in on the second half of a Qu'ran reading—men and women in a room together on benches, no-one too conservatively dressed. 

Gorky (Central) Park was next. Like Osh, it was filled with rides and food. Still a couple cuts below Disneyland, but a much more convenient and affordable outing for everyone.

Then on to Panfilov Park, with its enormous memorial to Kazakh soldiers who died fighting in their civil war and WWII. Pictures online didn't do justice to the scale of this exposing monument. It does a good, modern interpretation of the nation's Soviet heritage. 

Right next-door is the Zhenkov Cathedral, all-wood and tsarist-era. We were able to watch a baptism. 

Here's the Central State Musem. Good ancient history section, as well as a good exhibit on all of the constituent cultures that make up the Kazakh people. It was worth the couple miles walked though the 100 degree Fahrenheit day. 

Starving, Adam and I went to Coffeedelia, which is a world-class cafe full of what looks like Almaty's elite. Good value food, at just below US prices. Everyone's outside, underneath the neon orange awnings. 

For our last meal in the country: Daredzhani. One of the city's favorite restaurants, and a Georgian one at that. Adam and I were rewarded with
superbly-seasoned meat dishes in rich tomato-based sauces. Delectable cheesy bread on the side, washed down with delicious Georgian wine. I would definitely return, and now want to travel to Georgia sometime. 

On our way to the mashrutka station for a Bishkek-bound bus the next day, we tried Almaty's brand new subway. Completed in 2011, and started essentially as soon as the country gained independence, their single-line system is nice, even if the stops are sparse. More routes to follow. Each station sports a unique decor, so it's easy to distinguish them. 

 

Almaty has been full of pleasant surprises. It's definitely an easy city to visit.