Sunday, December 18, 2011

God’s Own Country

I ended my trip to India on a good note by training down to Kochin/Cochi in Kerala. Home to a rich past of monarchs and spice trade, Fort Kochi is an incredible old town to wander or pedal through. It’s in the middle of Malabar (of spice trade fame) on a large bay.



In the north are the enormous, spiderlike Chinese fishing nets, first introduced by Kublai Khan in the 14th century. They take at least 4 men to operate as they dip their nets into the shallows, rest for a minute or two, and then return to their upright position with assistance from large stone weights. I showed up in the morning and helped out for a while.




The south has a rich Jew town, including an old synagogue and plenty of upscale restaurants, cafés, and boutiques. One particularly awesome store was Play Clan, with a lot of artists contributing to make modern and uniquely Indian shirts, mugs, and other trinkets. I bought the best shirt in India.



With my Kiwi friends I made a tour of Keralan culture as well, starting with a visit to the Keralan Cultural Center. It’s a private venture, 3 stories high, and absolutely packed with ancient and antique artifacts. It was well worth the visit; even the building itself was composed of heavy wood walls and ceilings and tile flooring.



Next we went on a tour of the famous Keralan backwaters just out of town from Aleppey. We hired a small motor boat just big enough for all of us and took a tour down the canals. It’s easy to see why Aleppey is referred to as the Venice of the East.



We finished the night off with a performance of a part of the Mahabharata, in which the esteemed archer Arjuna faces down a disguised Shiva and learns a little humility in the process. The makeup, costumes, facial expressions, gestures, and accompanying music were all incredible.



Dinner was pick-it-yourself seafood next to the Chinese fishing nets. We selected a couple kilos of mussels, prawns, fish, and calamari before taking it to a nearby restaurant to have it grilled with rich Keralan spices. It was easily the best seafood I’ve ever had.


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